the economist hermes | How Hermès got away from LVMH—and thrived

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The luxury goods market, a barometer of global economic health and aspirational spending, is experiencing a period of significant divergence. While many brands are grappling with slowing growth and reduced consumer demand, Hermès, the French luxury house renowned for its iconic Birkin bag and silk scarves, stands as a remarkable outlier. While Bain & Company predicts a 2% decline in global personal luxury goods spending in 2024, Hermès continues to defy expectations, showcasing exceptional resilience and even accelerating growth in certain segments. This article delves into the factors contributing to Hermès' exceptional performance, comparing its strategy and trajectory to that of its competitors, particularly Louis Vuitton, and exploring the broader implications for the luxury sector's future.

How Hermès Got Away from LVMH—and Thrived:

The story of Hermès' success is intricately linked to its independence. Unlike many of its competitors, including Louis Vuitton, which is part of the LVMH empire, Hermès remains a family-controlled company. This independence has allowed Hermès to cultivate a unique brand identity and strategic direction, unburdened by the pressures of short-term shareholder returns or the need to conform to a larger corporate strategy. In the 1970s, the Hermès family successfully fought off a hostile takeover attempt by LVMH, a pivotal moment that shaped the company's future. This victory solidified their commitment to maintaining control and fostering a long-term vision focused on craftsmanship, exclusivity, and sustainable growth. This carefully nurtured autonomy has allowed Hermès to prioritize quality over quantity, a strategy that resonates deeply with its discerning clientele.

The family's long-term perspective is reflected in its approach to production. Hermès maintains a meticulous, artisanal approach to manufacturing, prioritizing handcrafted quality over mass production. This dedication to craftsmanship, passed down through generations of artisans, is a core element of the Hermès brand identity, contributing significantly to its perceived value and desirability. The scarcity inherent in this production model further enhances the brand's exclusivity, fueling demand and maintaining high price points.

Why Louis Vuitton is Struggling but Hermès is Not:

The contrast between Hermès' performance and that of Louis Vuitton, a fellow titan in the luxury goods industry, is stark. While Louis Vuitton, despite its immense brand recognition and global reach, is experiencing challenges, Hermès continues to thrive. This divergence highlights the critical differences in their respective strategies and market positioning.

Louis Vuitton's struggles can be attributed, in part, to its reliance on a broader, more accessible product range. While this strategy has broadened its market reach, it has also diluted the brand's exclusivity to some extent. The increased availability of Louis Vuitton products, coupled with aggressive marketing and wider distribution channels, has arguably diminished the perceived value and desirability of some of its items. The challenge lies in balancing accessibility and maintaining the aura of exclusivity that underpins luxury branding.

In contrast, Hermès meticulously cultivates its exclusivity. The legendary waiting lists for iconic items like the Birkin bag are a testament to this strategy. This controlled scarcity generates intense demand and reinforces the brand's image as a symbol of ultimate luxury and aspiration. Hermès' emphasis on craftsmanship, its relatively restrained marketing efforts, and its commitment to maintaining a sense of mystery all contribute to its enduring allure.

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